Essex Restaurants Offer Fine Dining To A Hungry Palate

By Cybèle Elaine Werts  
CybeleW@aol.com

Running a restaurant business in Essex is unquestionably a special thing, because unlike many other towns where restaurants complete fiercely for customers, Essex restaurateurs are unanimous in their respect and support for one another. Perhaps it’s because it’s a small town, and there aren’t that many eateries, but maybe it’s just old-fashioned Vermont good neighborliness.

If a person can be the heart of a restaurant, then Martha Kourebanas is definitely the heart of the Lincoln Inn. She is a warm and lively woman who genuinely cares about her customers as well as the restaurant. She is personally responsible for the charming décor, from the stunning dried flower window swags, to the cupboard of antique salt and pepper shakers, to a wall of old-time women’s hats. "I was at an antique salt shaker convention in town one day," says Kourebanas, "and I brought a few back for the restaurant. They were such a hit. I think people really appreciate the nonsense of it all!"

The Lincoln Inn is a historical building whose charm invites customers in, and where the food keeps them coming back. Located at Tafts Corners since 1914, this mainstay of Essex dining has something for everyone. From Classic American Cuisine of prime rib, turkey, steaks, and seafood to a tempting selection of Greek and Mediterranean specialties, no culinary passion will go unfulfilled. "We’ve had much more interest in ethnic foods in the last ten years," adds Kourebanas, "which is wonderful because it gives me a chance to go back to my roots." Some of the more popular Greek specialties include moussaka and Greek salad, and Greek Mediterranean Pasta. "What is special about our foods is that every single thing is made from scratch, even the simple things like salad dressing and gravy," adds Kourebanas.

With seating up to 250 guests, the combined space of the lounge, restaurant, and coffee shop serve meals from 6 AM through 2 AM. About fifty employees are active at the restaurant. Kourebanas agrees that there is little competition between Essex restaurants, and talks with enthusiasm about eating at nearby Loretta’s and Butlers.

Exotic influences may not be the order of the day anywhere in Essex, but there’s no more tender steak than those found at Butler’s Restaurant, a fine dining restaurant located at the Inn at Essex. Butlers is part of the New England Culinary Institute (NECI) which offers two year culinary degrees. Customers will find a focus on specialty vegetarian items during the day thanks to Chef Kevin Dunn who is a vegetarian himself and enjoys finding delicious recipes for the health conscious consumer. One of the most popular daytime items is a roasted pepper panino, a pita wrap sandwich with grilled vegetables. Customers also rave about the homemade soups, especially the smoked tomato soup and mushroom and miso soup.

Evenings bring a variety of traditional European pleasures, carefully prepared by Chef John Barton and Pastry Chef Ron Pehoski. Barton worked many years in Long Island in fine dining, and focuses on a new interpretation of classic cooking with rack of lamb, duck, and beef entrees. Don’t forget dessert because you might miss out on Pehoski’s justly famous crème brulee or flourless chocolate torte. Butlers also features a wine variety from Chapel Hill, an Australian winery, and is the only restaurant in New England to offer these delicious wines.

But if you’ve made it to the end of the week without time to eat out at Butlers, be sure to catch their Sunday brunch which offers an abundant spread of delicious foods as well as beautiful food and ice sculptures designed by the students training there.

Butlers is now in their eleventh year, having opened in 1989. Major renovations were completed in 1997, and recent additions resulted in a patio area that is permanently tented, even functioning during Vermont’s cold winters. This area can seat some 250 people for a sit down dinner, or 300 for a conference. The restaurant now seats some 80 customers, with up to fifteen students working the kitchen and dining room. The students rotate between these and other NECI restaurants in Burlington and Montpelier, working six months then rotating to six month internships at outside restaurants. NECI has also recently added a three-year bachelor’s program in service and management.

Customers looking for casual fare can skip the white suited students, and wander down to the Tavern On The Green, NECI’s upscale bar and restaurant which is also at the Inn at Essex. "The tavern is very popular with the local people here," says Lisa Brown, food and beverage director. "We offer hearty fare here, more of the hamburgers and pasta style." Between the two, neither guests at the Inn or customers anywhere nearby are likely to go hungry.

When it’s time for a delicious dessert, go no farther than Loretta’s in Essex Junction. On route 2A near five corners, this fine dining restaurant has homemade desserts to tempt any palate. One of their specialties is Linda’s Delight, named after co-owner Linda Pratt. It features vanilla ice cream served on a fresh puff pastry triangle topped with homemade hot fudge, pecans, and whipped cream. "We make our own hot fudge," says Pratt, "and that makes all the difference to this wonderful dessert!" Another popular dessert is Tort alla Loretta, named after co-owner and chef Loretta DeVito. This torte has a ricotta chocolate filing topped with whipped cream and crème de cocoa, or with the homemade hot fudge as a tasty option. "Not everything here is named after a friend or family member," adds Pratt, "but you know it’s a very special item if it is."

Don’t plan on jumping into dessert before dinner though, because you’ll miss out on Loretta’s large menu of Italian specialties which focus on veal, and seafood as well as a large pasta menu. Customers might start out with Spedino alla Romana, an appetizer of six layers of bread and cheese, dipped in an egg batter, deep fried, and smothered with an anchovy garlic sauce. Follow that up with one of the most popular entrees, Shrimp Pauline (named after Linda’s mother), with jumbo shrimp sautéed with proscuitto, shallots, pine nuts and peas served in a pink vodka sauce. Everything on the menu is made to order for each customer.

Linda Pratt is a native Vermonter, and lives in Essex. "One of the reasons we started Loretta’s is because there were no fine Italian restaurants in the area." She says. "Once I met Loretta and discovered her gift for cooking, we knew we had to open a restaurant." Loretta DeVito was a chef at Alfredo’s in downtown Burlington for thirteen years. A native of Yonkers, New York, she met Pratt at a basketball game and the dye was set. They plan to be at this location for another five years, as they have just signed a five year lease. "We love to update and renovate the restaurant from the inside," adds Pratt. "We recently added homemade tablecloths and curtains, as well as a handmade cherry bar." The restaurant seats about 100 guests, in a total of about 3000 square feet.

While families make up a good portion of the customer base, business people are the bulk of the daytime business. Entrees run from about $7 to $15, with specials like lobster or filet mignon around $19.95. "Our customers like to know that they can come back month after month and get their favorite dishes." Adds Pratt. "So we keep the menu the same, but add a few things once a year." These fine entrees are particularly appreciated because chef DeVito is self taught. From November through April, customers can also listen to Alan Bouchard, a local customer who comes in occasionally to croon Spanish love songs. "His singing makes the meal so much more special," adds Pratt. "Even though it’s Spanish, not Italian, customers love his fabulous voice."

Even Pratt likes to get away once in a while and try other local restaurants, and one of her favorites is Martone’s Market Café. It’s a sentiment shared by Anthony Martone as he and his sister eat out at Loretta’s on a weekly basis. Martone’s is more of a casual lunch eatery, and one highly recommended by Essex residents. Martone’s will be celebrating seven years in business this month. The space was originally a grocery store until co-owners Anthony Martone and mother Patricia Martone re-opened the space as a butcher and meat market. "We originally planned on just having a meat market," says Anthony Martone. "But by our second year, it was clear that Essex didn’t need a butcher all that much, but they definitely needed a deli!" Soon after, Martone’s gave in to popular pressure, with homemade soups, sandwiches, and entrees. Popular sandwiches include homemade chicken salad and the ever popular turkey. "A lot of customers come for our homemade spaghetti sauce," adds Martone. "Then after lunch they take some home for the family." The aromatic breads at Martone’s come from Stuart's bakery in Williston, and the Crescent Moon bakery in St. Albans. "Our sweet breads are also very popular," says Martone. "Breakfast customers especially like the sweet banana and cranberry breads, and our homemade biscotti."

Martone’s background is in food service, and he worked ten years at the Sirloin Saloon before starting his own business. "I did everything at the Sirloin Saloon," he says. "So I knew what I was getting into!" Martone’s restaurant business started with just a single burner stove, where he discovered, thanks to customer’s compliments, that he was quite a good cook. Co-owner Patricia Martone has retired, and no longer works at the store, but still spends summers in Vermont. Martone’s now has eleven employees, with five on at any one shift.

The store includes about 1300 feet, with about 1000 of that for customer seating. Martone is an avid redecorator and renovator and updates the seating area every few years." I like to redecorate the place, and update the menu regularly too," adds Martone. "My favorite part is creating cold salads since they are such a popular item." He adds that he gets many of his ideas for new menu items from visits to area restaurants like Loretta’s and downtown Five Spice Café. "I’ve tried some hot and sour soup recipes which are delicious and give the deli a little Asian influence, but I’d have to admit that many of our regular Joes weren’t very impressed!" adds Martone.

Another popular casual dining restaurant is the Choo Choo, offering full-service breakfast and lunch, family style. It’s a popular local spot, thanks partly to the décor which reflects the nearby train station with a pot belly stove, headlamps, and other train memorabilia. "We are very family-friendly," says George Lamphere, owner and manager. "When people want down-home food, the Choo Choo is where they go." Popular breakfasts include their Fratatta, an open faced omelet with cheese, broccoli, fresh vegetable, and breakfast meats like ham or sausage. "Many customers also like our breakfast burritos because they are quick and easy on the run." Adds Lamphere. Their American Homestyle menu also includes favorites like shepherds pie, homemade baked beans, and corned beer. Popular homemade soups include turkey orzo, kennebec bean, and tomato bisque. Now in business nine years, the restaurant seats fifty customers. Their thirteen employees are kept busy serving customers, most of whom live in the local area. "There are plenty of customers for everyone!" Adds Lamphere. "So we all enjoy each other’s food, and plenty of business too!"

Copyright 2000