St. Albans Restaurants Going Strong

By Cybèle Elaine Werts  
CybeleW@aol.com

Originally published in the Champlain Business Journal, Burlington VT

Twenty years ago "American" cooking was something of a joke, especially when compared to the glamour of French cuisine or the passion of Italian cooking. American food, represented by grilled cheese sandwiches, hot dogs, and mashed potatoes, was certainly not fine cuisine. Today however, regional cooking is flourishing and can stand up to comparisons with any worldly menu. This is as much true in the big cities as it is in nearby St. Albans, Vermont, where a variety of high and low-brow restaurants cater to the palates of hungry Canadians and Vermonters. Customers staying for the weekend will find both jazz and other live music weekend evenings at many local eateries.

On the high end is Jeff’s Maine Seafood, a staple of St. Albans culinary tradition and which will celebrate it’s anniversary this August. Taking the lead from the original owners who started the restaurant as an outgrowth of their fish trucking business, they feature fresh grilled fish of every sort. "We’ve recently expanded to include a gourmet retail shop and lounge," says Jamie West, Co-Owner and one of two head chefs, "and the Jazz music Friday evenings adds the finishing touch!" Diners will also find the seating comfortable with large windows facing St. Albans Main Street and a friendly atmosphere.

West describes their menu as "New American, a melting pot of local and international flavors." The international style of this restaurant is evident in his specialties, which are heavily influenced by the greens cooking of the Pacific/California area and the sauces of France. "We like to offer unusual fish dishes to those customers who have had the standard fare, and are looking for something new and interesting." West says. "For example, one of our specialties is a tuna seared in olive oil served over wilted spinach. It’s topped with caramelized onions, macintosh apples and gorgonzola cheese." Vegetarian options are widely available, particularly during lunch, and from the long deli case which features both a large selection of fresh fish as well as marinated items and cold salads. "We use seasonal items as much as possible," adds West, "especially local foods like apples and pumpkin.

Just down the street from Jeff’s is a St. Albans Family Favorite – Mimmo’s Pizza. While not at all in competition for the fresh fish crowd, residents are clear in their vote for best Pizzeria around. "We’re more than just pizza though." Says Heather Young, a waitress at Mimmo's. "We make a great variety of Italian food that is perfect for family dining." With some 75% of their customers being local families, they’ll be tossing a lot of that homemade pizza dough for some time. "The best thing is that we are also a family-owned restaurant." Young adds. "So it’s a very comfortable place to be, especially during summertime which is our busiest season!" One of the most popular entrees is the Tortellini Alla Pana, a pasta with a creamy cheese sauce, as well as Simone’s Special pizza with meatball, tomatoes, feta, light garlic and bacon toppings. Unlike many chain pizza restaurants, diners also enjoy several Italian desserts including tiramisu, cannoli and zeppole.

For those not in the mood for Italian Food, The Old Foundry is right around the corner and serving solid American fare. "People come from all over for our prime rib!" Says Brenda Thibault, manager and a big fan of The Old Foundry. "And when they are ready for something different, our Jambalaya is just the thing, loaded with mussels, shrimp, scallops, and lobster in a spicy Creole sauce." Diners will appreciate this family and business style restaurant with specialties focusing on steak, lamb, duck and roast pork. "We have one of the only salad bars in the area." Thibault adds. "and everything here is homemade, from the fresh baked bread and homemade soup to one of the largest dessert menus in their area." Their most popular dessert is a homemade fruit crisp with apples, raspberries, strawberries, and peaches.

Customers will appreciate the decor in The Old Foundry this spring as well, with an outdoor patio and courtyard with Victorian brick and wrought iron. Complete with flowers, grass and umbrella tables, The Old Foundry can seat 200 people for weddings as well as during their popular Friday night entertainments with musician Bob Gesser. "Friday nights are a big night here thanks to Bob." Thibault adds. "He sings everything from Patsy Cline to the Everly Brothers. He’s a big hit!"

The strong sense of business growth in St. Albans has extended to The Old Foundry as well, as Thibault notes the increasing number of Canadian tourists. "People will always dine out." She says. "it’s the cheapest way to get away from it all, and especially so when times are tough and they can’t afford big trips." With significant business activity bringing in workers to the nearby Comfort Inn as well as local supermarkets Grand Union and Price Chopper, Thibault expects business to continue briskly.

Any tour of St. Albans restaurants can’t miss Chow! Bella’s, located across from the grass commons on Main Street. With beautiful painted tin ceilings dating from the original building, customers enjoy an historic atmosphere while partaking of their seasonal specialties. Owner and chef Connie Warden is kept busy with increasing numbers of customers resulting both from Husky’s arrival in Milton as well as a generally strong economy. "We offer what I call ‘sunny food,’ a bright and zesty menu which is especially welcome after a long Vermont winter." Says Warden.

Coming up on their second anniversary, Chow! Bella’s offers a Mediterranean/American menu with a bistro like styling, featuring smaller "appetizer" type menu items, and few "entrée" size items. "Our customers like to try new things, and the bistro style allows them to do that without eating too much!" Warden says. Like Jeff’s Maine Seafood, their fish is fresh, and has been especially popular during the 40 days of lent which ended in the beginning of April.

While vegetarian options were mostly a token eggplant parmesan or pasta primavera a decade ago, restaurants now realize that offerings of fish and other non red-meat items is past being a trend, and is now a way of life for many diners. "Fish has really grown in popularity in the last five years." Warden says. "A few years back it was harder to get really fresh fish, but now it’s available in the big supermarkets." While Chow! Bella’s is not designed particularly toward vegetarian menu items, there are many items available with less or no meat. "Our vegieburgers, turkeyburgers, and beef burgers are all equally popular." Warden adds.

Chow! Bella diners Anneliese Elmore and Amy Irvin Witham agree with Warden’s sentiments as they munch on a pasta entree. "We come to Chow! Bella’s often," says Elmore, "But I’d really like to see more youthful restaurants like Hillary’s in Morrisville, or maybe Carbur’s in Burlington. They have a wide variety of foods, as well as a bar and grill." Fellow diner Witham agrees, "St. Albans also needs a good coffee shop and breakfast restaurant. There’s one coffee place here but it’s hardly ever open!" Both agree that Mimmo’s has the best pizza, but are clear that St. Albans doesn’t need any more pizzerias thanks to a glut of chain restaurants in the area.

Judging from the success of these popular restaurants, guests from Montreal to Montpelier have discovered the eateries of St. Albans, and judge them worth the drive.

Copyright 2000